Feminine self-confidence and individuality take center stage in Thang de Hoo‘s new collection, “Kaleidoscope.” On September 12, 2023, the internationally successful designer not only presents his current pieces but also tells a story. The motto is “woven, pleated, spun” because the narrative is derived from craftsmanship, as he explains in the interview. With his incredibly versatile collection, Thang de Hoo once again captivated the audience at MQ VIENNA FASHION WEEK.23.
The Shadows of a Herd. That’s all one could perceive in the dark showroom of MQVFW.23 before the black screen. The white inscription “Thang de Hoo” and the logo above it provided just enough light to recognize several heads, one of them adorned with Capricorn horns. From the speakers, an orchestral prelude played, giving the impression of being in an opera house. “Ladies and gentlemen!” announced the start of the performance, and with the illumination of the spotlights, the audience was immersed in the first of the seven acts.
Upon viewing the new collection, the initially puzzling motto “woven, pleated, spun” suddenly made sense. It was not just the vibrant colors that made the new pieces exceptional and extravagant; it was primarily the way the materials had been processed. The woven pattern of the lengthwise warp threads and crosswise weft threads of the caramel-colored crepe fabric coat drew all the attention in the room.
The initially predominantly single-colored combinations and dresses in intense hues transitioned into anthracite cocktail dresses adorned with large, dangling sequins. A recurring element was the long, thin fringes fixed on the arms or below the shoulder blades, adding breathtaking emphasis to the models’ stride. The black coat embroidered with pink, glittering flowers, under which a transparent, dark silk blouse peeked through, highlighted the versatility of Thang de Hoo‘s creations.
“Kaleidoscope” unites not only materials but also different fashion eras. The designer combines the classic corset of French Haute Couture with the asymmetry of Ancient Greece through ruffle details on the left shoulder of the blazer. High necklines closed with bows, V-shaped back cutouts, and angular, protruding shoulder pads visibly thrilled the spectators.
Likewise, the accessories for the head and hair varied throughout the seven acts: elegant deer ears and multicolored, elegant flower wreaths replaced single-colored rabbit masks and Capricorn horns. The headpieces are a collaboration between Thang de Hoo and inNirwanaOverdose. The extravagant accessories are part of the presentation and are meant to “accentuate” certain outfits, as the Dutch designer explained in the interview.
In the final act, black and red dominated the stage. The extensive floral patterns transitioned into individually embroidered, delicate red flowers. The crowning moment was a black, flowing evening gown with puff sleeves, adorned on one side by a red, glistening sea of flowers, followed by thunderous applause in the showroom.
Thang de Hoo’s “Kaleidoscope” collection was not only impressive; its presentation was truly captivating.